Let There Be Light

How is it that you can capture light, wear it and have it walk down a runway?

According to Karl Lagerfeld who designed the Spring 2011 Haute Couture collection for Chanel...the structure of every piece was created "pearl by pearl, thread by thread".

I love that. Pearl by pearl, thread by thread.

I can relate to that.

The effect was dresses spun from gossamer thread -- and a luminescence that is hard to accomplish without looking heavy.

The answer is in the fabric...or the lack thereof...

Most of the designs were not made with fabric but with embroideries...

Now what does that mean...? It means that the pieces were not cut from pre-beaded fabric...But that each piece was embroidered and beaded specifically for that one design...It allows a great degree of control over the outcome but is so incredibly time-intensive that it's almost overwhelming. Yet...

The overall effect is Light.

Diaphanous...

Ethereal...

Light.

But, oh so...wearable?

Yes. Wearable. There were pants and tunics and real, wearable pieces in this collection.

But what made it couture was the beading, the embroidery, the exquisite craftsmanship...

Over 10 million beads were used in this collection.

And I know only too well the work it takes to embroider 10 million beads...

It's an extraordinary feat. And we should recognize it as such.

My only regret is not being able to get up close and really see the workmanship of these pieces. I would give anything for a chance to turn my macro lens to these embroideries.

That's how they should be viewed....up-close and personal. In museums...with a magnifier...as works of art.

Have an inspired day.

You can watch the entire show on the Chanel website here. Treat yourself.

Strokes of Genius

It's that time of year.

While those of us in the U.S. are battling cold weather and snow, the runways of Paris are hosting the Spring 2011 Haute Couture fashion shows.

And, once again, I am thrilled with the artistry and inspiration of John Galliano for Christian Dior and les petites mains who embroider, bead and fashion his visions into wearable, walking, works of art.

This year, Galliano was inspired by the brushwork of Dior illustrator Rene Gruau who served the house of Dior from 1947 through the 70s.

And by chiaroscuro (the monochromatic play of light and shadow) used so often by late fashion photographer Irving Penn. Note how the light typically falls over one shoulder, producing a gradient of light to dark color.

Galliano's challenge to his atelier embroiderers was to capture the effects of brushstrokes produced by charcoal, pastels and ink...and the play of light and shadows a la chiaroscuro...through the use of fabric, needles and thread...

I love the cross hatching with beads on the skirt on the above right and the use of tulle overlays to produce the gradient of color sweeping diagonally across their silhouettes.

The use of feathers to soften edges...and the use of beads to mimic brushstrokes...

Even the milliner, sculpted hats that extended line and appeared as brushstrokes lifted from a page...

Layers and layers of tulle in varying depths softened the hard line of hems and gave volume to the shape.

The embroiderers did a fabulous job of translation. Even the flowers look like splotches of Gruau's pastels used in his artwork...

From inspiration...through the hands of skilled sewers and embroiderers...to the runway...

There's nothing more energizing to me than the works of these artisans that are on display twice per year...when we finally get to see the result of their many hundreds of hours of needlework.

And the long gloves...sculpted hair...red lips...and retro design...all added to my delight.

I enjoyed this behind-the-scenes video of the show...and thought you might too...

Next post is about Chanel...*sigh*

Fashion Inspiration

Actress Carey Mulligan in a Chanel Haute Couture sequin-embroidered top on the cover of Vogue Oct 2010 --

A stunning example of tambour beading. I bought the magazine just for the cover.

And another beautifully beaded and embroidered example from Matthew Williamson's Spring 2011 RTW line...

The combination of feathers, beads and sequins is extraordinary.

And, since so many of us are using image transfers in our needlework these days...

Check out what London designer Mary Katrantzou created when inspired by images of lavish hotel and staterooms...

She digitalized fragments of pages from vintage copies of Architectural Digest and The World of Interiors, amped up the color to hyperrealist level, and then started thinking about the possibilities of what she could do with curtains, chandeliers, wall sconces, and lampshades.

You may think it's a bit over-the-top but her use of images really works. And what is it that makes it work? (You can see her whole collection here and a video of the fashion show here.)

If she had just plopped a clipped image from a magazine onto a dress...it wouldn't have worked at all. But her use of symmetry -- of spaces within images -- of color and contrast and contour -- it's stunning.

Me? I'd wear this dress below in a heartbeat.

And I find all of this creativity very refreshing...and worthy of study for adaptation into my own work.

And my next tambour beading project will have hints of that Vogue cover in it for sure.

Happy creating, my friends!