Fashion Makes the Girl

Audrey Hepburn in Roman Holiday

In the Summer of 1953, just before the release of her Oscar-winning movie Roman Holiday, a 24-year old Audrey Hepburn traveled to Paris for her first haute couture shopping trip. At the time, she was still fairly naive in the fashion world and had been sent to Paris to secure a few fashionable outfits to use in her next Paramount movie, Sabrina.

In Sabrina, Audrey would have to make the transformation from a regular girl from Long Island to a Parisian sophisticate...from girl to woman...from pure to sexual. At the time, sex on the big screen was most easily conveyed by buxom bombshells such as Jane Mansfield and Marilyn Monroe. How then, would they transform the big-eyed innocent, extremely petite Audrey Hepburn "girl" into the worldly and sexual woman who returns from Paris?

The screenwriters decided on an evocative costume change and, in a stroke of genious, decided to engage an authentic Parisian designer to design Sabrina's authentic Parisian couture.

And so Audrey was in Paris in the Summer of 1953 and walked into the design house of a young designer, Hubert de Givenchy...because Balenciaga was too busy to see her.

Givenchy gown worn by Audrey Hepburn in Sabrina

Because of her diminutive size (measurements of 31.5"-22"-31.5"), the fashion of the day wasn't always the best choice. So Audrey made selections that accentuated her best features and flew in the face of the cinched-waist and busty hourglass designs that were so popular at the time.

She won Givency over that day and so began a collaboration that culminated in Givenchy's design of the little black dress worn in Breakfast at Tiffany's. A dress which cemented Audrey Hepburn as one of the greatest fashion icons of the century and solidly linked Hollywood and fashion from thence forward.

Fashion can transform. Just ask Madonna or Lady Gaga. Fashion can accentuate the allure and appeal of a woman...can bring out her beauty. And there is power in beauty.

And so, I find myself drawn to fashion as significant inspiration in my own pursuit of creating beauty through my needlework.

I've said before that fashion is the ultimate "crazy quilt"...it's mixing together different media, textures, and techniques to create an overall portrait or look. Maybe it's portraiture too.

Most of the time, when I post about fashion, I'm posting about the embroidery, beading or fabric manipulation techniques that I admire or would like to emulate some day in my own work. The little details that les petits mains have embroidered, sewn, beaded or sculpted into being...and sometimes I'm just overwhelmed with the beauty of a look or a complete collection.

So here's some things I noticed about the Spring 2012 Ready to Wear fashions shown this past week in the fashion capitals of the world.

First of all, many collections showcased lace but I was particularly drawn to the details of some of the pieces from Valentino.

Like this dress...

I can't say I like the overall dress all that much but I do admire the embroidered leaves and applied velvet blooms of the hydrangeas over the lace...

And I want to remember how the embroidery of these large blossoms covered the transition of the ivory lace to the red lace. I wouldn't have dreamed of putting them together...but that little pop of red makes the whole gown...

I noticed that this dress from Valentino...

Looks like it was made from bobbinet and, similar to the Carrickmacross lace technique, it looks as if colored muslins were appliqued over the bobbinet and cut away and embroidered to make the flowers...I really like the color on black...

I liked this lace overcoat with velvet tie from Miu-Miu...

And there were lots of these patchwork capelets that made me want to translate them with beading and embroidery...A less grandmotherly look to the shawl...

But this coat from Louis Vuitton!

I love it and would buy it tomorrow if I could. Love the contrast of the cutwork flowers with the masculinity of the plaid...What a way to jazz up an old man's plaid overcoat.

And I call this dress from Chanel, Poms and Pearls...

Check out the details...

Isn't it sweet?

That being said, my absolute favorite collection in its entirety, was the Mary Poppin-esque collection from Bill Gaytten at Galliano. I loved it all.

The fitted, feminine jackets and carpetbags...

The flirty dresses and crushed boaters...

The ruffles and the drape...

And the crushed ribbon corsage attached with a big diaper pin...

And the shoes!!!

The mix of pattern, color and texture...the buttons, the tassels...! Aren't they something ? ***Sigh***

The creativity is unbelievable to me. And I can completely understand how adding the right pearl necklace over too long of a neck...or a wider belt for too thick of a waist...could completely re-make the woman...

When speaking of her lifelong friend, Hubert de Givenchy, Audrey said, "His are the only clothes in which I am myself. He is far more than a couturier, he is a creator of personality." And I believe that to be true.

OK...Oprah or Ellen or somebody out there. How about whisking me away for a total, all-expenses-paid makeover in New York City. I think I need a new personality!

Happy weekend everyone. I hope my butterfly emerges by Monday!

P.S. You can see all the Spring RTW 2012 collections here at Vogue.com...enjoy...