Friday, June 17, 2011

Still petaling...

Well. My estimations for completing my work were, once again, overly optimistic. And so...

I am still here petaling along...


I finally have finished the 10 petals of silk tulle and silk organza.

That being said, before I cut them out, I experienced a moment of indecision.

Should I add some fine embroidery or beading to the petals? If I did, I would have to do that before cutting the petals out.

So, I quickly couched down a wire and roughly cut out a petal and placed it over one of the lace flowers to see how it might look with nothing. Then I added ivory beads...and took them away. And silver beads...and took them away...


I decided to keep the petals simple and allow the transparency of the tulle and organza to remain unimpeded by beading or embroidery.

I hope that was the right decision but there's no going back now.


For those that are interested in my supplies, I used a very fine size 100 silk YLI thread to couch down 33 gauge floral wire. I then overcast the wire with Guterman silk sewing thread. I auditioned many different threads but this one was the closest to the cordonet that surrounds the original lace Chantilly flowers that I had in my stash. Using a size 12 sharps needle and a very strong magnifier, I overcasted the wire with the silk thread.

Those petals are only about 10mm-15mm apiece so they're pretty tiny...which is why the only tulle and laces that would work are those made with very fine netting.


Today, I'm moving on to make the five petals on bobbinet. It's a busy weekend so I'm not sure how far I will get.

Speaking of tulle and bobbinet, I happened upon these two beautiful historic examples showing the versatility of embroidery with the two fabrics both from the Les Arts Decoratif in Paris.

The embroidery on this satin dress circa 1810 caught my eye...


You can see that the border is embroidered with shells...Scallop shells and nautilus shells being used as vases for floral bouquets.

If you look more closely...


You can see that the shells are embroidered with flat silk over a base of bobbinet. Isn't that lovely? I love this idea!

And this gown circa 1907-1910 from the Callot Souers is just a tour de force of embroidery techniques using tulle and bobbinet. Metal lace, metal embroidery, paillettes...all over bobbinet... And, the piece de resistance...that gorgeous, shocking-pink tulle drape...


*Sigh*

I'll leave you with that vision of elegance for the weekend.

See you next week!

12 comments:

Gerry Krueger said...

You're ok overestimating the 1st time but when you do it the third and fourth time on the same project.. you are in trouble...
I love that embroidery over tulle and will have to try that SOON before I forget.. Ger

Linda H said...

Vision of elegance indeed! Wow - those gowns are beautiful - can you imagine actually wearing something like that? Wouldn't you just die if you snagged one of those beautiful embroideries...?
Your petals are coming along splendidly... way to go Susan! It's going to be gorgeous...I have no doubts.

gracie said...

I am so impressed with the petals! Elegant comes to mind....

kaiteM said...

your dedication constantly amazes me. those vintage gowns are quite out of this world.

Pam Kellogg said...

Talk about being under a rock! Where have I been? I was just admiring your Queen doll in Allies book this afternoon. Then I get online and come to your blog and there she is! Gorgeous! I'm following you now and I've added your blog to the sidebar on mine!

Pam

MosaicMagpie said...

The vintage gown is beautiful, imagine all the work that went into creating it and then having someone else wear it!
Deb

Rachel said...

I think you are right, the petals are so delicate they won't need any further embellishment. It's always worth trying, though, because sometimes the extra detail really helps.

Carol said...

I wonder what it would have been like to live in an era, and at a level of society, to choose dresses like these a common decision.

I have always thought of myself as having lived a past life in the WEST in the 1800's.

You, my dear, must have lived in some other life when wearing such regal gowns was a common occurrence. What do you think Jim did back then?

Day dreaming on a cloudy day.
xx, Carol

Ingrid Mida said...

Sigh.... Those gowns are lovely as is your work!!
I am going to do a post for you on some of the embroidered pieces I saw at the Jean Paul Gaultier exhibition preview last week.

Elizabeth said...

Those gowns are amazing!! Thanks for the close up of the shells with flowers - unbelievable mastery of detail and stitch. This must have been done by very young eyes- no magnifyers then!!!!
Again I bow down to yor workmanship- I am in awe!!!!

underatopazsky said...

Those petals are so fine and delicate - looking forward to seeing them applied. And the silk over net embroidery for those shells on the early 19th century dress is something I've never come across and truly amazing. Thank you for finding and sharing the images. :o)

Barbara C said...

Sigh indeed! The embroidery on that dress takes my breath away!

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